A Realistic Weekend in Lisbon With Young Kids
Steep hills and cobblestones make strollers impractical in parts of Lisbon; here is what worked instead over four days.
Lisbon's hills and cobblestone streets are charming in photos and genuinely difficult with a stroller in practice. Over four days with two children under seven, we found that a structured carrier for the youngest and a simple fold-up wagon for snacks and tired legs worked better than the stroller we almost brought.
The Alfama district's narrow lanes are not stroller-friendly at all — steps appear without warning and sidewalks narrow to less than a shoulder's width. We'd suggest saving Alfama for an adults-first scouting walk, then returning with kids once you know which routes avoid stairs.
Public trams are a highlight for children but get crowded fast, especially Tram 28, which fills with tourists by mid-morning. We had better luck riding it right at opening or opting for the less scenic but far less crowded Tram 15 toward Belém, which also drops you near the Jerónimos Monastery gardens, a reliable spot to let kids run.
Food-wise, the custard tarts at Pastéis de Belém live up to the lines, but the wait with young children is long; a lesser-known bakery nearby serves a nearly identical version with no queue. Portion sizes at most sit-down restaurants run large enough for two kids to split a single main.
